Lesson 12 – Pick A Subject

The best way to improve overall as a photographer to take pictures - go out and shoot. A great way to promote better photographs focusing on one subject for a period of time. Every time I photograph their subject as a person, place, plant or something, find a new way to photograph. It could be from a different angle, another time of day, different light - what can you do to see the issue in a new way.

For this lesson, you can pick up something about a shooting on a regular basis. It may be: your car, your cat, your "significant other", a guitar, who is walking around the neighborhood, things that look like numbers, rusty objects, etc.

Anything you want to watch.

Exercise:
Every day for the next 10 days to take some pictures of her. Look for different ways of seeing the same issue. Position on the matter in different settings, different lighting situations, try some different exercises in composition - find the S-curve on the content, or for the content of S curve, the same as diagonal lines, etc. Just follow the progress shooting and learning the same material.

What you learn from this exercise by simply making the most of the encouraging things.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 11 – Negative Space

One way to ensure that its composition is a stronger attention to positive and negative spaces.

The main theme of the picture, person, building, toy car, no matter what, the "positive space".

The negative space is everything else. What you see in many of the things that come out of photography at the head, the wires through the scene I could not wait to take the picture, and so on. It's just as much attention to the subject that photographers forget what at the bottom or on the question.
 
Exercise: take pictures of the three different materials outside. No matter what a person, car, building. While taking the photo, do not worry about the item, but pay attention to what's around and behind the subject.

Use the background to frame the scene - as of this exercise, the real question is not important. If the background work for you, move to you - zoom in or zoom out to change perspective, will drop or rise more. What makes the fund a nice photo.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 10 – Balance

There are a few ways to achieve balance in photos.

The first is by symmetry - the threads of the same size on both sides of the picture. This creates a static image, a sound with little traffic.

The second is to place a different object size for both sides, but to use an image as a center of balance in an asymmetrical composition. As an adult and child in the Teeter-toter, an adult must be much closer to the center point of balance so that the child will not be in the air all the time. If you have a group of objects on the one hand, you take more away on the other side in order to create równowagi.Asymetryczna composition creates a sense of movement and action, even if the object is a stone.

Classes - collect some rocks, some of similar size and a little different. On the sidewalk or other surface handy, try to create some symmetrical and asymmetrical compositions, taking photos of each.

Building on the right side of the exercise brainThis exercises based on the Building on the Artist Within. This is an excellent book to learn about creating art - the basics taught through drawing, but are applicable to all forms of art and just great for learning to be creative. I highly recommend it. 

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 9 – ‘S’ Curves

Another dynamic tool composition is to include "S" curve. As the name suggests, an important element of the composition would be an object, like a stream, road, rail, or other object, which creates an "S" curve

If S is right in front and begins in the lower left corner and leaves the upper right corner - the feelings of people who speak more English is that the image moves away from the viewer.

If the "S" turns and starts at the top left to bottom right, the picture seems to be coming toward the viewer. This effect is, I think, to learn to read from left to right.

Exercise: go find the S-curve for photography. Meet curves right and left face and see how they feel to you.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 8 – Diagonal Lines

A good way to compose a dynamic image is to have a diagonal line that goes through your picture from corner to corner, or 1/3 down from the top to 1/3 from the bottom. The line can be a street, a fence rail, a road or coastline. All that creates a line or division of the image.

If the line rises or falls create different feelings about the image. Typically, for English speaking people and others with "left-right" direction of writing, if a line on the image top left to bottom right, which seems to be the face of the image. If the line rises from the lower left to upper right, which seems out of the picture.

You can use these concepts to create certain feelings in the picture. As an example, a person standing next to a lake - in the bottom line, this would suggest people in the image and therefore would perhaps happier and more spacious. If the line rises to the left indicates person and therefore is more distant and removed.

Diagonal lines in the images can be used for what is called a "main line", which helps bring the point of view of the image through directionally. Typically, you have lines of "points" on the main subject of your photo - that puts the main lines of negative space (space is more negative in Class 11)

Exercise: Find a place where you can use a line running diagonally through the image. Take two images, one with the line, the drop in the image from left to right, the other rising to the right.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 7 – Rule of Thirds

The lesson to be used in artistic composition is the rule of thirds. While there are many ways to compose pictures, this shortcut always makes one more interesting than most, where the subject is dead. If you shoot a closeup of the face of a person or other object, and the core is what they should do. But if you have a photo with a person in the middle and a lot of scenery around you - yes, could be improved.

 

Exercise: Take a piece of paper and draw two horizontal lines which divide the paper into three parts.
Draw two vertical lines in diving new paper in three parts.
Consider the four locations where the lines cross each other.
Now go take a picture of something - put the subject on one of these four positions of the third of the way to the top or bottom, and a third of the distance from the side. In fact, try to place the same subject in the four positions intersection. Check the pictures.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 6 – Shutter Effects

You probably have these pictures of a race car or bike rider, where the object seen in the fairly sharp but the background is blurred with stripes is called velocity. Maybe you have a waterfall that looks like flowing silk seen. Or to see a photo completely frozen with no on-site in a sporting moment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=g9s4M1jKhwU

This is a result of creatively with the camera shutter. High shutter speeds like 1/500th, 1/1.000, 1/2000th or higher (remember that is a fraction of a second) to create a stop motion.Alternatively, the slow shutter speeds like 1/15th, 1/4 or even the second, gives a sense of movement through the blur of a portion of the image.One question that often, if the shutter speed is too slow, the image is blurred by the "motion blur", which can be detrimental to an image, the effect is not intentional.

Exercise: This is best done on a cloudy day, not too dark or too bright. Find a friend with a bike or would like to run. Go to an open area and establish their position. Does your friend or a drive for you, many many times. You'll have to do a lot of shows being shot.First, set the shutter speed as high as possible from the lights - waiting about 1/500 to 1/2000 - with the opening as open as can be configured (ie ƒ1.8).

As your friend is beyond you, take him or her in the viewfinder, turn the waist constantly pointing the camera at his friend. Take lots of pictures for several laps. This is known as "panning". You may want to try a couple of passages without firing the shutter, and practice keeping your friend in the viewer as he or she spends with you.

Now the shutter speed as low as possible - I would suggest about 1/30, remember to set the aperture as high as possible to light. Repeat the above movement framing to support his friend in the viewfinder. Take lots more pictures, and remember to keep appearing at the waist with a friend yesterday.PS - to keep your images sharp acceptable rule of thumb is to keep the shutter speed at least equal to the focal length - so a 50 mm lens should be used with a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second or faster. But I find most digital cameras you want to add another 50% - so you want to shoot at 1/80 or faster (the third of a stop corresponds to 1/75).

For sharp images of a tripod is a useful tool for unlocking the choice of shutter speeds.

Alternatively, you can have your camera for surprisingly long periods with good technique: Place the bottom of the camera body in his left hand and hold the weight with your hand and then put the left elbow, basically, in its lower left rib cage. Lastly, maintaining the display close to the eye and use his right hand to release the shutter and also stabilize the camera. Breathe in and breathe out slowly while squeezing the shutter.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 5 – Depth of Field

Depth of field - sometimes called depth of field (even though it has a meaning different technique - some people use that term) - is an area that many photographers feel some confusion.

By changing the aperture of the lens, one can use the resulting image will have more of the image in focus near to far or you can limit the image at the focus of a place.
In ƒ1.8, is the focal point with a lot of things defined before and behind the subject is further away from the softer look on the object they are. This is a very nice way to call attention to the subject.
In ƒ22 will focus seem to be very close to the camera focuses on the almost endless. This is great for a sense of place that you shot the photo, or how many people in the image and keep clearly in focus.

However, there are limits to how it will appear in the final image.

Exercise: Find a subject / object, which will still be in a place or for a few minutes. Stand about 2 meters from the subject and focus on it. Make your ƒstop to 1.8 (or as close as possible to light in the base) and get the shutter speed to achieve the correct exposure for your meter. You can set the camera to Priority (AV Mode) and let the camera automatically adjusts shutter speed. You should put a 50 mm lens or a zoom lens of 50 mm.

Put your ƒstop to 16 and the shutter button switch as needed.

Go back about 10 meters away from the subject and then make the settings above - then at first in the ƒ1.8 ƒ16.

To really drive this exercise, try the above steps with different lenses or at different lengths, if you have a zoom lens - i.e. Try it at 35 mm and 200 mm, or what is your zoom lens.

PS - A related issue is Bokeh is a Japanese word from a "Boke" which more or less mist or means adopted. When a photographer, said that a picture is "good bokeh" that the elimination of the focal points of a uniform quality means. Different lens and camera combination of different qualities of bokeh.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 4 – Exposure: Low Key

This is the opposite of the previous lesson. A low profile picture is pretty much black on black, or at least very dark to dark. This type of photo may be a feeling of intimacy and anticipation, sadness / or severity. Maybe you have a face or object with a rim of light in a silhouette, but dark on the side toward the camera and the dark background.

The problem with obscure recordings in the dark is that the camera will attempt to increase the image makes the image look washed out and shine to gray.

For this recording, you need a dark cloth, preferably black, and an object that is dark or has some dark tones in it. You could take a picture of a person with dark hair wearing dark clothing against a dark background or black for a low-key portrait.

Note: Recording of an object or a person who is very bright or white against black has a different effect and is not really a "low key", although it may be shocking picture anyway.

Exercise: First, take a picture of what you say is the correct camera exposure. A few meters from the camera will make the scene well. Now, take a meter reading in a little dark / black, the incident light and close the opening of two stops (i.e when do you want to go to ƒ1.8 ƒ4.)

Compare the two images and see what he did.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 3 – Exposure: High Key

A picture is essentially high-key white on white. This style of photography gives an impression of lightness and clarity. Typically what happens is the camera wants to make the white of the photo - no dark areas to "balance" of the exhibition - too dark. So you know has turned gray. You may have seen, especially when shooting a snowy field on a gray day. However, to expose high key is quite simple.With a camera in meters, you can measure the light hitting a white area and two open cases such as changing the opening to ƒ11 ƒ5.6.
Exercise: Put a large sheet of white paper or white cloth on a table near a large window to the north, lay an egg in the middle. Take a picture with exposure in the camera meter suggests. You may need to use a tripod the camera does not shake when the shutter speed is too slow.
Described in the top of this page - meter next to a white surface and open two stops. Compare photos.
This can be good for other scenarios, the exhibition is a delicate thing - like weddings where the bride wears white and the groom is black. Winds often with the dress no detail is blown into the clothing. By measurement of the dress and the development of two stations, you can prevent this.
You can also use a handheld device, the light strikes the subject, the more accurate than the value measured in camera meters.
Note: Please note that some digital cameras built exposure to avoid overexposure. If the exposure is too much to do could be "blown" and details are lost int the brightest areas of the image. By artificially "darkening" of the image, the camera manufacturers try to ensure that risks are not too bright. This does not affect all cameras, but it seems to be the case for some. This means that exposure in Class 2, 3 and 4 may require somewhat higher than suggested in the lesson. Maybe you use the method "on the right side to expose."

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 2 – Exposure (Basic)

Note: Completion of this lesson requires a camera with manual exposure capability.

What is the correct exposure? This is not complicated, but the exposure you need to make a choice. Disclosure select determines how the picture looks. However, we will start with a basic understanding and working from there.

The exhibition consists of four factors:

1 - how much light is in front of you - this can be modified by light or flash,
2 - also known as ISO (remember, I use the word "movie", which the media used for image capture, purchase, if the digital camera sensor or film really) - the sensitivity of the film is given
3 - The amount of light passing through the lens - the opening of the call
4 - how many are present in the film - called the shutter speed.

For a little more about how this works, see the camera Basic page.
Currently, we use an average exposure of an average scene.
If you do not have a built-in camera meters - that's really old. But that's okay. You have to buy a PDA. If you have an SLR or advanced point and shoot digital cameras have to spend some time with the manual to figure out how to "histogram" that graphically displays the amount of light exposure.

First exercise - set the ISO to 100, set the camera shutter ƒ16 and 1/125th of a second. (Some digital cameras are limited to ISO 200 - which means you have to reduce their exposure to a stop, i.e. using 1/250th instead of 1/125th of a second) With this setting, the camera for a sunny day, the sun sets behind you and pushes it all - you have a well exposed image. This is called "Sol 16" rule.

To make your creative life interesting, and your photography, you can change the setting and still get the same exposure. These exposures are equivalent: Try going ƒ11 at 1/250th of a second. Push it a little further on ƒ8 at 1/500th of a second. These are all the same, because the exposure meets the same total amount of light the film.
Of course you're not always going to shoot with the sun behind you on a sunny day. For other situations, you need to be able to figure out your exposure to one meter. This can be held in the camera or hand.
Looking at each scene, the meter will give you a proposal to use that exposure. Most of the time this is pretty accurate.
Use the meter, take a reading from the somewhat mixed shades in the shade on a sunny day - you will find the exposure is two or three stops slower than the "Sunny 16".

The second exerciseOne of the best things to do for more accurate exposure meter of light falling on a particular subject you're shooting. Find a place where there is a small area of ​​light, such as a gap in the wall, light coming directly through the window, etc. Take a picture from far away you get a lot of shadow area. You will probably find the site too bright light in the picture. Go directly to the patch of light and see what device you use you there. Then go back to where you take a picture of - and with camera in hand - to set the exposure that has been requested.

You can also use your hands to help determine the impact in different situations. First - on a sunny day, do f16 rule, setting the camera at F16 1/125 second. Keep your hand on the sun, and it is meter. You may have noticed meter says you have to change the exposure. Note how many yards says hands off with f16 rule and have it in mind. Assume the counter said that you must expose your hand at f22. This is one stop darker than they actually need. Now go into the shadows and yards of your hand. If he says, f11, you know that this is one stop too dark to set the camera to f8.

Knowing that your hand for the exhibition can help you create exposure in most cases - just make sure that your hand is in the same light as the object you're shooting.

Slightly more accurate way to make the exposition to buy a "18 percent gray card." Most camera stores and photo departments should be these. To use it, just put it next to the subject you're shooting, and the meter from him. If you have more than a practical approach to this issue - to install a card in the same light as the subject again and meter of the map.
The third exercise - or 18 percent gray card or by hand as described above, the meter in dark shade and determine exposure.
Last comments - meter is very easy to get your exposure, but it has limitations. As mentioned earlier, the counter said that the world at 18 percent gray. Most of the world like a 18 percent gray, but not all.

See what you shoot. If it is black (or very dark), your meter will try to make it gray - and make the exposure is too bright. Conversely, if you object white, the counter will try to make it darker - or 18 percent gray.
There are two classes at a high key and low key pictures to help you cope more extreme situations.
Note: Keep in mind that some digital cameras have exposure constructed to prevent overcharging. If the exposure is too bright points can be "blown away" and the detail is lost in the bright parts of the image. Artificially "eclipse" image, the camera manufacturers try to make sure that the effect is not too bright. This does not affect all cameras, but it seems that if some of them. This means that the effect should be in 2 classes, 3 and 4 may be slightly higher than suggested in the lessons. You can use the "put right" method.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Lesson 1 – Intent

Why do you want to take pictures? You may want to share with others how they see the world around you, you can document your life and the lives of the people you love, you may have a desire to create images that blow away from the others. There are many good reasons to get into photography and so it is well for you.
I put this section because when I first learned photography - the second was the first technique and art. This is a time honored way to learn photography. But now that I did 30 years ago I think it was a way to re-learn photography.
Photography is an art and you are the artist. If you're thinking that could never be an artist that I have good news for you - they already are. Only the time to read this page you showed to have the desire to do pictures that you like and can influence others - this is art.

Now comes the fun part - think about why you want to take pictures. Write a list of:

1- Things such as photography. Love time to view the images in print or on screen? This is a challenge to make the image? It is to share pictures with your friends? These are memories that you get when you look at the pictures later? Whatever you like to take photos, write it down.
2- What do you want to achieve with photography. Do you want to remember that children are like at every stage of their development? Do you like flowers or architecture or to the mountains and wants to prove it? Do you want to show the human condition? Want to start a career in photography? Write down what you want your photos done.
3- What subjects you want to shoot. Flowers, dogs, children, models, food, human feet, whatever. Save the stuff you'll get your attention or make you wish you had a camera when you see it.
4- How do you feel about these issues. Do you love to hate, to feel afraid of him, laugh with him, that was yours? This is really the most important part of the lesson. Once you understand how you feel about something, you'll find photography improves automatically.

Now grab a pen and start writing. When you are ready to put it on the wall, throw in your camera bag or put it somewhere you can easily browse. Add or change as you grow as a photographer. But if you have a list, you have the perfect tool to make our photography better.
You will notice a link in the upper right corner of the book "drawing on the artist in" Betty Edwards. I recommend this book to learn about bringing out your inner artist - it's very, very good book that taught me a lot.

 

Read more... Résuméabuiyad

Photography

Best Photo with basic lessons in the lessons you will be able to better images and more enjoyment of the text. AND, all of the basic lessons of more than 12 lots of other tips and tricks are the best free Photo Lessons. Read more thou shalt know the following.
They are systematically arranged in the order of the lessons, which to build the arts - not fear you will pass through the Item you either before or which does not have a proper function of the going down of the lessons of a few of these. Do not worry, that thou canst, and casting lots.
There are also brought to power a couple of more for sale Powered bookstore or Amazon.com - check both.
Giving teens bow, who is it to love, so that you please leave.
And they have not forgotten, of the following is absolutely the best ways to get from there to correct your and of sending.

Read more... Résuméabuiyad