Note: Completion of this lesson requires a camera with manual exposure capability.What is the correct exposure? This is not complicated, but the exposure you need to make a choice. Disclosure select determines how the picture looks. However, we will start with a basic understanding and working from there.
The exhibition consists of four factors:
1 - how much light is in front of you - this can be modified by light or flash,
2 - also known as ISO (remember, I use the word "movie", which the media used for image capture, purchase, if the digital camera sensor or film really) - the sensitivity of the film is given
3 - The amount of light passing through the lens - the opening of the call
4 - how many are present in the film - called the shutter speed.
2 - also known as ISO (remember, I use the word "movie", which the media used for image capture, purchase, if the digital camera sensor or film really) - the sensitivity of the film is given
3 - The amount of light passing through the lens - the opening of the call
4 - how many are present in the film - called the shutter speed.
For a little more about how this works, see the camera Basic page.
Currently, we use an average exposure of an average scene.
If you do not have a built-in camera meters - that's really old. But that's okay. You have to buy a PDA. If you have an SLR or advanced point and shoot digital cameras have to spend some time with the manual to figure out how to "histogram" that graphically displays the amount of light exposure.
Currently, we use an average exposure of an average scene.
If you do not have a built-in camera meters - that's really old. But that's okay. You have to buy a PDA. If you have an SLR or advanced point and shoot digital cameras have to spend some time with the manual to figure out how to "histogram" that graphically displays the amount of light exposure.
First exercise - set the ISO to 100, set the camera shutter ƒ16 and 1/125th of a second. (Some digital cameras are limited to ISO 200 - which means you have to reduce their exposure to a stop, i.e. using 1/250th instead of 1/125th of a second) With this setting, the camera for a sunny day, the sun sets behind you and pushes it all - you have a well exposed image. This is called "Sol 16" rule.
To make your creative life interesting, and your photography, you can change the setting and still get the same exposure. These exposures are equivalent: Try going ƒ11 at 1/250th of a second. Push it a little further on ƒ8 at 1/500th of a second. These are all the same, because the exposure meets the same total amount of light the film.
Of course you're not always going to shoot with the sun behind you on a sunny day. For other situations, you need to be able to figure out your exposure to one meter. This can be held in the camera or hand.
Looking at each scene, the meter will give you a proposal to use that exposure. Most of the time this is pretty accurate.
Use the meter, take a reading from the somewhat mixed shades in the shade on a sunny day - you will find the exposure is two or three stops slower than the "Sunny 16".
Of course you're not always going to shoot with the sun behind you on a sunny day. For other situations, you need to be able to figure out your exposure to one meter. This can be held in the camera or hand.
Looking at each scene, the meter will give you a proposal to use that exposure. Most of the time this is pretty accurate.
Use the meter, take a reading from the somewhat mixed shades in the shade on a sunny day - you will find the exposure is two or three stops slower than the "Sunny 16".
The second exerciseOne of the best things to do for more accurate exposure meter of light falling on a particular subject you're shooting. Find a place where there is a small area of light, such as a gap in the wall, light coming directly through the window, etc. Take a picture from far away you get a lot of shadow area. You will probably find the site too bright light in the picture. Go directly to the patch of light and see what device you use you there. Then go back to where you take a picture of - and with camera in hand - to set the exposure that has been requested.
You can also use your hands to help determine the impact in different situations. First - on a sunny day, do f16 rule, setting the camera at F16 1/125 second. Keep your hand on the sun, and it is meter. You may have noticed meter says you have to change the exposure. Note how many yards says hands off with f16 rule and have it in mind. Assume the counter said that you must expose your hand at f22. This is one stop darker than they actually need. Now go into the shadows and yards of your hand. If he says, f11, you know that this is one stop too dark to set the camera to f8.
Knowing that your hand for the exhibition can help you create exposure in most cases - just make sure that your hand is in the same light as the object you're shooting.
Slightly more accurate way to make the exposition to buy a "18 percent gray card." Most camera stores and photo departments should be these. To use it, just put it next to the subject you're shooting, and the meter from him. If you have more than a practical approach to this issue - to install a card in the same light as the subject again and meter of the map.
The third exercise - or 18 percent gray card or by hand as described above, the meter in dark shade and determine exposure.
Last comments - meter is very easy to get your exposure, but it has limitations. As mentioned earlier, the counter said that the world at 18 percent gray. Most of the world like a 18 percent gray, but not all.
See what you shoot. If it is black (or very dark), your meter will try to make it gray - and make the exposure is too bright. Conversely, if you object white, the counter will try to make it darker - or 18 percent gray.
There are two classes at a high key and low key pictures to help you cope more extreme situations.
Note: Keep in mind that some digital cameras have exposure constructed to prevent overcharging. If the exposure is too bright points can be "blown away" and the detail is lost in the bright parts of the image. Artificially "eclipse" image, the camera manufacturers try to make sure that the effect is not too bright. This does not affect all cameras, but it seems that if some of them. This means that the effect should be in 2 classes, 3 and 4 may be slightly higher than suggested in the lessons. You can use the "put right" method.
You can also use your hands to help determine the impact in different situations. First - on a sunny day, do f16 rule, setting the camera at F16 1/125 second. Keep your hand on the sun, and it is meter. You may have noticed meter says you have to change the exposure. Note how many yards says hands off with f16 rule and have it in mind. Assume the counter said that you must expose your hand at f22. This is one stop darker than they actually need. Now go into the shadows and yards of your hand. If he says, f11, you know that this is one stop too dark to set the camera to f8.
Knowing that your hand for the exhibition can help you create exposure in most cases - just make sure that your hand is in the same light as the object you're shooting.
Slightly more accurate way to make the exposition to buy a "18 percent gray card." Most camera stores and photo departments should be these. To use it, just put it next to the subject you're shooting, and the meter from him. If you have more than a practical approach to this issue - to install a card in the same light as the subject again and meter of the map.
The third exercise - or 18 percent gray card or by hand as described above, the meter in dark shade and determine exposure.
Last comments - meter is very easy to get your exposure, but it has limitations. As mentioned earlier, the counter said that the world at 18 percent gray. Most of the world like a 18 percent gray, but not all.
See what you shoot. If it is black (or very dark), your meter will try to make it gray - and make the exposure is too bright. Conversely, if you object white, the counter will try to make it darker - or 18 percent gray.
There are two classes at a high key and low key pictures to help you cope more extreme situations.
Note: Keep in mind that some digital cameras have exposure constructed to prevent overcharging. If the exposure is too bright points can be "blown away" and the detail is lost in the bright parts of the image. Artificially "eclipse" image, the camera manufacturers try to make sure that the effect is not too bright. This does not affect all cameras, but it seems that if some of them. This means that the effect should be in 2 classes, 3 and 4 may be slightly higher than suggested in the lessons. You can use the "put right" method.
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